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Pro to Know: Louis Licari

by Fabiana Santana

Louis Licari is a name synonymous with perfect color. Originally trained as a painter at Syracuse University, Louis took his artist’s eye and put it to use as a colorist. Louis started his career at the bottom, shampooing heads at an upscale salon, and literally worked his way up to a space that sits high above Fifth Avenue, the location of his New York salon. Since 1987 Louis has been owner and creative director and even opened a second salon in Bevery Hills in 1992. Today he is responsible for maintaining the manes of the runway’s most wanted models, dividing his time between salons by alternating weeks throughout the year.

Often referred to as the “King of Color,” Louis’ secret to his long-standing reign is his ability to create modern color that works for the individual woman. Shying away from the trendy hair color of the moment, he is more concerned about how the color works for each person.

It’s no secret that anyone sitting in Louis’ chair automatically feels special. Whether she’s an actress, a runway model, or a businesswoman, Louis is known for providing all clients with his undivided attention while he listens and assesses their color needs. He took Coco Rocha’s rule-breaking style into consideration when he turned her brown hair bright red and helped Linda Evangelista transform into her many looks. How do you think she got the nickname “Chameleon”?

In 2006 Louis launched the Ionic Color Preservation Systemâ„¢, his hair-care line made especially for color-treated hair, and essentially took the guesswork out of at-home hair care with his line of daily shampoos, conditioners, root lift, molding creams, and finishing spray. So now you can get model hair at home. Thanks, Louis!

DOS AND DON’TS FROM LOUIS LICARI
Pretty Color, but Not for Hair
“Everyone who watches ‘Ambush Makeover’ on the Today show knows that I have a special place in my heart for redheads. I think that reds are often one of the most flattering color choices. Truly beautiful red hair should look like you could have been born with it—if you’d been incredibly lucky. This means you must be aware of the tone of the shade you choose. Natural red hair has either a golden or copper base color. Reds that have cherry or burgundy hues should be the color of cars, not hair.”

Shampoo Is Oily Hair’s Best Friend
“Fine, straight hair is often envied by women with curls or frizz. It often falls into place with little or no effort and has a shine that most women only dream about. There is a downside to this hair with perpetual shine. It needs to be shampooed daily, otherwise it can look excessively thin. When hair is not clean, the part can look extra wide, almost giving a balding look. This hair must be shampooed frequently to keep it looking full-bodied. Conditioner should only be used on the tips of the hair shaft.”

When Frizz Takes Over
Curly hair needs to be controlled. Curly hair is naturally drier than straight hair and can often have a frizzy texture. I often see women with this texture who don’t have a clue how to handle it. They either try to blow it straight or leave it curly. It often ends up looking like fried, dried-out hair that is in horrible condition. It’s not! Curly hair should not be shampooed frequently, but it does need constant conditioning to maintain a healthy look. Styling products with low alcohol content will hold the curl in place and prevent hair from looking damaged.

Who Are You Fooling?
Hair extensions can be the perfect solution for women who want to make their fine hair appear thicker or to add a few extra inches to their hair. Hair extensions that are applied correctly look totally natural. But if they are applied incorrectly they can look like you’re wearing your pet on your head. The texture, color, and length must always blend with your natural hair. Extensions that are too long, thick, or thin just look wrong.

Photos courtesy of Louis Licari

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