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When your muse is Irving Penn and you’re designing for a female audience, obviously menswear as womenswear is going to make an appearance. But Jason Wu’s Fall collection looked anything but androgynous—his show may have started with Anja Rubik in the men’s department, but it evolved into girly wares, taking women all the way to the bridal boutique.
Penn’s personal uniform of plaid jackets and crisp white button-downs was translated here by losing fabric in blazers either by cropping them or eschewing long-sleeves for short, while prints seen on Constance Jablonski’s power suit and dresses worn by Lisanne De Jong and Aline Weber reminded us of works by the famed photographer. Calling attention to the collarbone, necklines were adorned with jewelry detail or warmly wrapped in oversize scarfs.
Wu went playful in the last half of the show, playing with embellishments and dress shape. Abbey Lee Kershaw wore a strapless number with a boxy hoopskirt, and Lindsey Wixson stunned in a pink feathery off-the-shoulder confection, but no one could compare to the gown that Karlie Kloss closed the show with. Her strapless, one-sleeve printed dress will have bridezillas everywhere fighting to the death. ~ Jessica Mahler