Runway Recap: Valentino, Chanel and Saint Laurent

Valentino: Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccoli have proved their ability to inject young and modern designs elements while still maintaining the storied aesthetic of Maison Valentino. This was one of their most successful collections to date. Inspired by Dutch Master painters, the mostly long sleeved dresses in a color palette of rich reds and blues featured high white collars and laser cut leather detailing. While there were no pants there were a variety of lengths from mini to floor sweeping- Piccoli said of the collection, “It’s for different women for different moments.” The girls looked youthful with clean faces and long plaits worn with black headbands.

Chanel: At the center of the stage at the Grand Palais was a giant globe with pin points locating Chanel boutiques around the world. The very outerwear heavy collection starred coats that resembled the thick woolen coats with extra large collars that turn of the century explorers wore. Navy blue double breasted versions were worn with the collar up and many of the looks were paired with fur helmets. Styling and accessories are always major clued at Chanel shows and the other key player was the chained motorcycle boots. There was all star cast of course that included, Stella Tennant, Cara Delevingne and recent campaign girl Ondria Hardin.

Saint Laurent: Hedi Slimane’s second women’s collection for Saint Laurent was inspired by “California Grunge.” The girst look out saw Hanne Gabby Odiele in swiss-dot tights, biker boots, and a gold specked dress with a tattered black plaid cardigan over top. The series did not evolve into a finale of glamorous evening wear tinged with grunge elements, because as it seems Slimane believes in repetition. As if each look was a repeated break with the recent success of Stefano Pilati, and with the long legacy of Yves Saint Laurent himself. The grunge looks is very now and it will sell well with those whom are committed to the look.

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