Runway Report: The Proenza Schouler Boys Explore Woven Leather and Photoprints for Spring!

Photos by Style.com

If a picture can say a 1,000 words, then the leftover blue and yellow tinged paint chips on the walls at last night’s Proenza Schouler show had the power to explain the entire designer collection.  As Aymeline Valade, Liu Wen, Sigrid Agren, and other top models navigated their way through the maze of weathered warehouse rooms, it was clear that for Spring 2013, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez were concerned with the same type of varied textures and collage effects plastered on the venue’s walls.  Photo-printed leather patches featuring cutout images of crowds and public swimming pools, were expertly woven into squares of exotic skins to create sleeveless satin dresses and bold separates.  Many of these looks even raised the bar with the addition of colored studs covering the bodice, and silver grommets cascading down a streamlined dress.

Sportier elements were also a major focus this season, as the design team presented a host of last-cut perforated and crocheted leather skirts paired with oversized slouchy vests and jackets.  Together, the offerings gave off an air of edgy, youthful, edge with the mix of neon skins woven with leather patchwork details. The intricacy of the stitching techniques mixed with the heavier materials could have been overwhelming, but in the hands of McCollough and Hernandez, the looks only read powerful, experimental, and impossibly cool.

However, when it came down to beauty, the “Proenza Girl” was slightly more minimal, showcasing long strands that were meant to look a bit dirty and unkempt.  Inspired by the image of a model who overslept in a high collared shirt, the master Fekkai team prepped the models by braiding the bottom layer to create a “skinny hair” effect, before tying fabric around their necks to create a natural looking dent in the hair.  But, like the clothes themselves, the rough attitude behind the hairstyle only added to the designers’ spring ambitions: creating rich, multi-layered looks that did all of the talking for you.

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