Giambattista Valli: The hand painted floral prints shined in this collection inspired by a forest fairytale. The silhouettes were stiff with ruffles but the witchy styling of blushers and butterflies upon the models’ faces kept the vibe energetic and youthful.
Versace: It was all out sexy in true Versace style. The fabrics were light and shiny in shades of aquamarine, peach and purple and were corseted with plastic coated strips of bonded fabric.
Christian Dior: Raf Simons’ first collection for Dior was a much-anticipated success. Simons brought his pure and modern thinking to Dior’s signature silhouettes-fit and flare dresses were truncated and worn over pants and the new-look dress was done in the powder pink he finished off with at Jil Sander . This killer collection bodes well for the future Dior.
Chanel: The collection was full of pink and gray- classic Chanel- but the looks were long and surprisingly retro which is not exactly Lagerfeld’s thing. Stella Tennant and Jamie Bouchard walked the show and confirm that this collection was for a timeless woman.
Valentino: Severe beauty was the theme for a collection that seemed to break away from the romantic excess associated with Valentino’s couture: the major statement being the abundance of blue. The thoughtful and slightly monastic collection embodied understated elegance, and was an exciting turn for the brand as well as today’s couture.
Armani Prive: Mr. Armani is of the old school who aims to dress a woman from morning to midnight: chic from dusk to dawn in sharp jackets, long wide leg pants and flat shoes. The eveningwear was more mysterious and otherworldly with sequined chiffon veiling the model’s faces.
Elie Saab: All dresses and almost all embellished, Elie Saab is centered around cocktail and eveningwear. Despite their glitz, the red-carpet ready dresses were easy and elegant and came in shade inspired by the blue and gold architecture of the Byzantine era.
Maison Martin Margiela: The 15-look “artisanal” collection was centered on the reclaiming of vintage pieces. An old doorknocker became a clasp to a jacket and vintage lace was sourced from all over France. The limitations on the design process resulted in one of the most unique and thoughtful collections of couture week.
Givenchy: Riccardo Tisci applied his heavily detailed hand to fringe leather and fur in his most recent couture collection. Inspiration came from the gypsies of southern Italy but the clothes were elevated to uber-chic standards.
John Paul Gaultier: Male and female models were the performers in this 3-ring circus of a collection complete with, tailcoats, gowns and bustier. Gaultier’s flamboyant flare was perfectly matched to the 1920’s vibe, which also had chinoiserie detailing. Karlie Kloss was the showstopper in a gold jumpsuit and embroidered cape.