London was a whirlwind. With all the different design ethos that exist in this city-from traditional to punk- it’s hard to make sense of it all. After reviewing all the shows we’ve selected the 5 we think you need to know about. Some are noteworthy for their aesthetic shock value,others for their all-star cast list and celebrity stacked front row, while others, still, for their ability to confuse us.
From L to R
J.W. Anderson: Anderson has always loved white shoes and his collections are always varying degrees of clinical. While the cinched skirts and color banded turtlenecks resembled straight jackets and scrubs Anderson aimed to disturb the conventional lines of his clothes. The standout looks were fitted turtleneck with shoulder capes that were cut off before the torso and were open in back. Anderson is one of the more well loved designers in London and will be designing another capsule collection for Topshop soon.
Burberry Prorsum: Christopher Bailey was inspired by Christen Keeler, a british showgirl whose affairs with notable politicians in the early sixties scandalized the public. Bailey’s collection was an attempt on flirtatious. With leopard printed leathers, peekaboo fabrics and heart printed undergarments the collection was a pin-up girl’s dream. Edie Campbell opened the show with a short black crop and Cara Delevingne, Karlie Kloss and Jourdan Dunn all walked.
Christopher Kane: This was Kane’s first presentation since his backing by luxury group PPR, and was his biggest to date. Kane went back to last seasons’s Frankenstein collection and took to the brain science of pulling references from his design career thus far and fusing them into this collection. Hemlines were held together with crocheted stitches, floral applique stuck to sweaters and leather straps bound fur collared jackets. Kane still aims to dress his favorite bad girl, but this show offered more for polished luxury shopper who is looking to be only a little bad.
Giles: Giles Deacon seems to live in the magical forest. Disney’s Bambi and Thumper were printed on his backstage passes. Edwardian princess dresses were paired with starched white collars and chunky knit hats. The model’s had super-long witch-like hair and their eyes were smudged with a chalky pink and gray shadow. Standouts were gold laser-cut leather dresses, woven leather corsets and long flowing gowns, which will all be fought over for the September issues. Kristen McMenamy opened the show in white and closed it in black; she seemed to embody the mysterious collection perfectly.
Tom Ford: Tom Ford had to make a splash. It was his first proper show in years. The collection was inspired by “cross-cultural and multi-ethnic” if that sounds crazy, well, it was. Printed tunics were mixed with lace, multi-colored furs, and black evening dresses were adorned with cartoon “Ka-Pows.” Ford has always walked the line of good taste/bad taste, and here he was leaning towards bad. But it wasn’t boring, which Diana Vreeland said is exactly what you get with too much good taste. Editors are paying attention so Ford’s splash must have gotten them wet.